This autumn’s London Fashion Week showcases celebrated labels such as Burberry and Alexander McQueen. On Wednesday, however, a notable surprise emerged: Marks & Spencer stepped onto the runway, joining the city’s luxury cohort.
The high‑street retailer is celebrating its centenary in fashion by staging a September runway event that will highlight its latest women’s and men’s collections.
Stuart Machin, chief executive of M&S, said the decision to stage a show at London Fashion Week was an opportunity “to showcase our designs on the global fashion stage” and part of a broader strategy to reposition the brand as the preferred destination for high‑street shoppers.
Laura Weir, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, described M&S as “one of the great icons of the British high street,” adding that the retailer has “played an important role in the nation’s retail and cultural story for generations.”
The show will be livestreamed, allowing customers to tune in from.Combo
Unlike many luxury houses where runway pieces arrive in stores months later, M&S collections will be available immediately online and at larger store locations.
Catherine Shuttleworth, retail consultant and chief executive of Savvy Marketing, said M&S’s participation in London Fashion Week signals “confidence in its fashion credentials.”
During a speech at the company’s annual meeting in London, Machin noted that the brand had successfully shed its earlier “frumpy” reputation—a term used by former chief executive Steve Rowe in 2016.
Since taking the helm in 2022,unately Machin is driving a transformation focused on boosting sales and profitability by targeting younger, fashion‑savvy consumers.
Maddy Evans, head of women’s wear, has been instrumental in this shift, employing trend‑driven monthly product drops that resonate with social‑media audiences. Signature items such as barrel‑leg trousers, mesh jelly shoes, and lightweight funnel‑neck jackets offer a budget‑friendly alternative to designer pieces, helping to reposition M&S’s customer base toward those in their twenties and thirties.
Previously known for staple items, the retailer’s recent move toward contemporary fashion and affordability has marked a radical strategic pivot. Its quick responses to luxury trends have highlighted its social‑media appeal, with TikTok videos such as “rate my M&S haul” and “unbox my M&S order” amassing thousands of views. Current bestselling items include kitten‑heeled flip‑flops, floaty lace tops, and striped knitted dresses inspired by high‑end designers.
During peaks of nostalgia‑driven fashion, M&S swiftly launched a 1990s‑inspired collection featuring loose white shirts and black slip dresses, echoing the style of Carolyn Bessette‑Kennedy.
In June, the retailer showcased its summer line at Ibiza, with a swim‑pool‑based catwalk hosted by presenter Amelia Dimoldenberg. Last week, a run‑through at Silverstone’s pit lane introduced another collection, with models striding against the backdrop of the Grand Prix garages.
These high‑profile events coincide with the appointment of celebrity ambassadors such as Gillian Anderson and Claudia Winkleman, sell‑out collaborations with Sienna Miller and Bella Freud, and the inclusion of sustainable and niche brands like Nobody’s Child and Ghost London. Retail analyst Elizabeth Stiles noted that such initiatives have “elevated perceptions of the entire business.”
M&S now captures just over 10% of total national clothing sales and serves 12 million female customers. This represents a remarkable recovery, given the retailer’s exit from the FTSE 100 in 2019 and subsequent return four years later. The 2025 cyber‑attack that temporarily halted online sales also underscored the company’s resilience.
M&S’s London debut follows similar milestones set by Topshop in 2005, the first mainstream high‑street brand “`show in schedule). Cos will present its show at New York Fashion Week in September, and the brand’s sister label H&M opened London Fashion Week with prominent models Alex Consani and Paloma Elsesser last year.
While the strategy to target younger shoppers has generated excitement, some shareholders worry about alienating the brand’s traditional customer base. At its AGM, Machin highlightedExplicit customer feedback—particularly from a senior 78‑year‑old supporter who expressed concerns over short, sleeveless tops. Accordingly, forthcoming collections, including the September runway, will incorporate more modest silhouettes to address such preferences.
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