Last season, Kenzo artistic director Nigo deepened his homage to founder Kenzo Takada by showcasing the collection in the designer’s longtime Parisian home, a tranquil Japanese oasis where Takada lived for over 15 years. As my colleague Luke Leitch noted at the time, “Change is in the air at Kenzo.”
Returning to the rue Vivienne showroom, today’s preview revealed further evolution—bridging past and future. Most striking is the revival of Takada’s authentic signature. Those familiar with his handwritten show invitations will recognize the fluid, cursive “Kenzo” now emblazoned on slingbacks and patch pockets. A brand representative explained that the script honors “the hand behind the house,” and it now sits alongside the back‑to‑back “KK” monogram introduced last season, creating a instantly recognizable mark whether used alone or repeated.
The updated branding is only part of the story. From hooded denim jackets to lived‑in workwear and reimagined varsity pieces, the clothing exudes a relaxed, wearable coolness that reflects Nigo’s influence. Letterman jackets appear in varying degrees of Americana and Parisian flair; ikat‑inspired floral prints adorn both denim and a versatile windbreaker; and officer jackets for men and collarless jackets for women demonstrate how tailoring can shift between formality and casual ease.
One of the sub‑seasons—scheduled across three drops in October, November, and March—highlights Nigo’s passion for ceramics, focusing on texture, craftsmanship, and earthy tones. His hand‑thrown pieces are currently on view in a retrospective at London’s Design Museum. While winter puffer coats and cozy knits dominate, many items remain seasonless, such as a fire‑man jacket with metal closures and pastel hickory‑striped lighter layers.
Additional highlights include a “jumping tiger” motif rendered in yellow and black, an archival “Kenzo Work & Play” logo that encapsulates the spirit of this first pre‑collection since Nigo’s 2021 appointment, and a range of new entry points to the brand: an everyday Kenzo Rush sneaker, nylon Kenzo Janguru bags, and denim silhouettes inspired by Nigo’s own archives. Instead of a traditional men’s fashion week runway, Kenzo plans a series of activations that promise to broaden the brand’s reach.
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