The CB‑90 patrol boat’s four‑man crew navigates Odesa Bay, diligently scanning for sea mines, sea drones, and the Shahed aerial drones that Russia frequently sends toward the Black Sea port city. Their objective: safeguard the city’s maritime lifeline and its residents.
“If we spot a sea mine, we seek permission to shoot at it,” explains Serhii, captain of the naval patrolling unit. “If a Shahed is coming in, it might be our guy who fires to take it out.” His words echo the crew’s vigilance, which takes place both at night and during the day.
Why We Wrote This
Odesa, a critical hub in global food security, endured its fiercest winter of Russian attacks since the war began. Today the city is charting a course for a thriving summer, determined not only to survive but to build a better future.
The city’s maritime commander notes that the crew’s most active patrols occur at night, describing them as “night watchmen for Odesa.” Yet their work spans all hours, ensuring the port’s security and sustaining the city’s economic pulse.
Observing the centuries‑old city along the coastline, from historic port to modern apartments, Serhii stresses that their daily patrols keep Odesa functioning amid war.
After a winter marked by civilian infrastructure attacks, power outages, and the destruction of grain silos, Odesa is now focused on progress.
“We have adapted to the war reality as our new normal,” says Oleksandr Filatov, first deputy mayor. “Every day we work to make life safer and better under this new normality, while strategically planning the post‑war Odesa we envision.”
Howard LaFranchi/The Christian Science Monitor
Dmytro Barinov, president of Ukrport, notes that the volume of ships awaiting entry demonstrates that sea transport remains profitable despite the conflict.
Odesa houses the largest port complex in Ukraine, a country long recognised as a global food basket. In inter‑war years, the port supplied up to half of the grains delivered by the U.N. World Food Programme.
Although the harsh winter dampened morale, the resilient “Odesa spirit” continues to shine—particularly as the city gears up for the summer tourist season that traditionally fills restaurants and hotels.
Money to be Made
At the beachfront Cottage Lanzheron hotel, contractor Mykola Todorov directs crews repairing the facade damaged by a drone attack in late April.
“It’s about making money,” Todorov says. “The owner wouldn’t repair this unless they could recoup costs over the busy summer season.” He adds that the work also provides livelihoods for his crew.
Shards of drone wings litter the beach, while a crater marks the spot where a Shahed struck the hotel’s front, shattering windows.
“People lost hope over the winter,” Todorov says. He notes that his brother had to sell an apartment just to keep food on the table. He also observes that many young workers now prefer to stay home during conscription‑driven blackout periods.
Howard LaFranchi/The Christian Science Monitor
Odesa contractor Mykola Todorov’s refurbishment of the Cottage Lanzheron hotel signals hope for a bustling summer and a stronger future for the city.
“Rebuilding projects like this show that owners believe visitors will return,” he affirms, expressing confidence that revenues will rise again.
History Buff: The same outlook applies to Oleksandr Babich, a former tour guide turned soldier, who reflects on Odesa’s long tradition as a trade hub since ancient Greeks and Turks.
He compares Odesa to European port cities like Venice and Marseille, noting that the steady flow of Ukrainian grain and seed oil fuels global markets.
“Because the world continues to need Ukrainian commodities, the port remains profitable even amid conflict,” says Barinov.
He reports 50‑70 vessels await docking daily, underscoring that risk and insurance costs have not deterred shipping. Even so, the war has sharpened operational practices: quicker loading/unloading, safer work environments, and tighter naval coordination.
Howard LaFranchi/The Christian Science Monitor
The “Odesa Mama” Vibe
Odesa’s unique spirit, Mr. Babich says, has helped it weather war better than other cities. This spirit fuels a distinct humor that meets hardship with laughter and gives rise to the term “Odesa Mama,” denoting the city’s warm and comforting vibe.
“‘Odesa Mama’ was what greeted visitors at the airport before the invasion shut it down, but the spirit has endured,” he notes.
Deputy Mayor Filatov recounts the relentless attacks from December 12 until mid‑March, which left thousands of apartments without heat and water, and damaged over 300 residential buildings.
He stresses that the city now aims to “rebuild smart,” preparing for future winters by adding anti‑drone mesh to power stations and offering seed money for solar panels in homes.
“Our main task now is to help apartment buildings become as autonomous as possible by providing alternative heat and power solutions,” Filatov says.
Grain silos are also being protected with anti‑drone grids.
Despite increasing strikes since 2023, new businesses are sprouting, and housing construction has doubled in square footage since 2024, indicating growing confidence.
Population Regrowth
Before the war, Odesa’s population exceeded one million. After the 2022 invasion, the figure fell by several hundred thousand.
A resurgence began in 2024, with an estimated 200,000 displaced Ukrainians from more threatened fronts moving in. By last year, returning residents added to the growth, bringing the population to roughly 850,000.
The city’s historic district welcomed a McDonald’s this spring, a nod to business confidence, though some residents initially resisted the idea.
Displaced entrepreneurs, especially from Kherson, have established dozens of small businesses. A notable example is Magrest, a storefront fixture company run by Aliona and Oleksandr Kovalchuk, who relocated twice due to war.
They now employ 18 staff members and plan to expand into home office furnishings.
Howard LaFranchi/The Christian Science Monitor
The Kovalchuks attribute their optimism to the resilience cultivated in earlier conflicts, allowing Odesa’s “Odesa Mama” spirit to shine brighter.
“Sometimes it feels like you’re getting a hug from your mom,” Aliona says. Together, they view Odesa as a fertile ground for continued growth and better living conditions for their clients.
Oleksandr Naselenko supported reporting for this article.
