ABASHIRI/SHIBETSU, Japan – This autumn, salmon catches in Hokkaido totaled just under 6,000 tons by late October, representing only 3% of the 2003 peak. Fishermen are increasingly concerned not only about the low yields but also whether the industry can persist, according to Tetsuya Shinya, head of the Abashiri Fisheries Cooperative.
Local residents have long regarded the return of salmon to their natal streams as a matter of course.
While familiar to many, salmon possess many hidden behavioral secrets. Juvenile salmon migrate from freshwater rivers to the ocean, where they feed, grow, and mature in waters such as the Gulf of Alaska long before returning to their birthplace three to five years later to spawn.
The return is marked by an epic journey. Upon entering their natal stream, salmon cease feeding and swim upstream, enduring physical trauma. Those that survive muster their last strength to spawn and pass the cycle on to the next generation. This life-ending process has historically provided vital nutrients that helped forests and wildlife survive harsh Hokkaido winters.
Salmon have been central to Japan’s aquaculture sector. Since the Meiji era (1868–1912), human intervention has supported their migration. In aquaculture, eggs are collected and incubated prior to release. Unlike natural settings where survival rates from egg to juvenile range from 10% to 20%, local aquaculture techniques currently boost these rates to 80%–90%. The 1970s saw technological advancements and favorable maritime conditions that significantly increased salmon populations and bolstered the regional economy of the Sea of Okhotsk.
However, this optimism has wavered as an excessive decline in resources has made securing adult salmon increasingly difficult.
Yasuyuki Miyakoshi, a counselor at the Kitami Salmon Enhancement Program Association, noted that salmon are diminishing in number, maturing at a younger age, and shrinking in size. He attributed the decline partly to climate change, which may be creating unfavorable conditions for juveniles by reducing food availability in the seas.
Funding constraints further exacerbate the crisis. Since hatcheries rely on contributions from fishermen’s catch, a drop in harvests weakens the capacity to nurture the next generation.
Amid shifting maritime conditions, onshore initiatives are emerging. The Abashiri Fisheries Cooperative has introduced a joint-ownership model for fishing vessels to reduce maintenance costs and streamline operations. Looking ahead to potential further declines, the cooperative plans to reduce the number of fishing boats and nets.
Hokuyo Kyodo Gyogyobu, a fishing company based in Shari, has sought to increase market value by gutting and washing salmon immediately after landing to enhance flavor and extend freshness. This premium handling has earned praise from local restaurants and allows the company to sell its salmon at 30% to 40% above standard rates.
Beyond salmon, Hokuyo Kyodo processes incidental catch—particularly blowfish—by deep-frying it for hot pot ingredients and producing seaweed gelato. The company is also exploring diversification into sea-kissed sake brewing and operating a seaside inn that showcases local fishermen’s fare.
“We are facing a terrifyingly poor catch of salmon,” said Masayoshi Itou, a director at Hokuyo Kyodo. “I feel despair, worry that salmon will no longer return. Our priority is preserving this industry. We aim to ensure that future generations can contribute to the sea’s bounty, find love, and build families within this coastal community.”