Hed Mayner Unveils Spring 2027 Menswear Collection

Hed Mayner relies on a personal coping strategy amid relentless heat waves and a barrage of negative news. “I don’t engage with that world; I live in my own,” he remarked backstage at the gilded, chandelier‑lit, and thankfully air‑conditioned Cercle des Armées. He emphasized that this isn’t willful ignorance, adding, “I’m simply striving to stay positive.”

While earlier collections leaned toward high volume, this season centers on fabric, Mayner explained. “The focus is on purification and producing something sharper and clearer—minimalist in concept yet maximalist in texture.”

Stripping back to the essentials of his craft, Mayner experimented with unconventional materials such as tightly woven white nylon mesh and jute canvas—a modest fabric that, when painted white, mimics a crocodile‑skin appearance. Closer examination revealed the effect to be craquelure.

“There’s an element of randomness,” he noted, “but it’s a deliberate randomness, guided by clear intention.” Though unconventional, the pieces resonated well. In a more restrained tone, a jute top with trumpet sleeves shone as if lacquered, paired on the runway with generous trousers in burgundy vegan leather.

Throughout the collection, Mayner emphasized the art of cutting in serene hues—sky blue, pale yellow, ecru, and rust. His tailoring expertise subtly emerged in an ecru cotton‑canvas parka that is cropped at the front like a bomber and extends longer at the back. Similarly, a jacket with shoulder seams shifted a few degrees backward exudes grace and confidence. A slim, double‑breasted jacket in crinkled dry cotton appears polished when worn over matching trousers cut roomy and drop‑crotched, reminiscent of judo pants for ease of movement. Embracing a “fast and random” dressing philosophy, outerwear features a sleeveless overcoat with armholes that dip to the waist, facilitating easy layering over jackets. A kimono‑inspired jute trench, shown alongside a periwinkle polo sweater, is slit high at the back, its panels secured by a rear tab—unless the wearer prefers to leave them loose. This “fly or die” detail, as Mayner calls it, underscores why he commands serious respect among designers.

The understated yet striking accessories feature whimsical, cloud‑like fabric bracelets, Joaneta sneakers created in partnership with Barcelona‑based Aro, and a collaboration with Tuscan shoemaker Strulini that yielded ultra‑flat sky‑blue Oxfords, whipstitched canvas booties, and suede “sock” moccasins.

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