Maria Grazia Chiuri Debuts Modern Vision in Fendi’s Fall 2026 Haute Couture Collection

Rome’s Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea served as the setting for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s inaugural haute couture collection for Fendi. Having recently transitioned from her long tenure at Dior in Paris, Chiuri—originally from Rome—brought a distinctly contemporary perspective to the historic house. While the city is steeped in antiquities, her debut emphasized modernity, juxtaposing past and present through a lens of innovation.

To honor the occasion, Chiuri reimagined a 1985 Fendi exhibition curated by Karl Lagerfeld for his 20th anniversary at the brand. Though the retrospective featured 180 Lagerfeld illustrations and 25 of his fur designs, the collection did not replicate the 1980s aesthetic of boxy, power-shouldered silhouettes. Instead, Chiuri introduced fluid, a-line forms that cascaded to mid-calf or ankle lengths, prioritizing movement and natural drape. The opening look—a caftan inspired by a 1920s design worn by Emilie Floge, a couturier and muse to Gustav Klimt—evoked the reformist silhouettes of the early 20th century, rejecting restrictive Victorian norms. This marked a stark contrast to the heavily structured, maximalist designs prevalent in recent Paris couture shows.

Chiuri emphasized craftsmanship over ostentation, stating, “At Fendi, craft is not an element, it’s the center of their work.” Her approach involved integrating all house ateliers—couture, fur, leather, and textiles—for collaborative design. A standout ivory cape mimicked lace from a distance but revealed intricate floral motifs crafted from fur, leather, and fabric—a nod to Fendi’s Echo of Love upcycling initiative. Other pieces featured fur-like knit textures, while high-waisted, wide-leg trousers—rare in couture—added a modern edge. Structured jackets, tailored with kimono-inspired proportions, further underscored the collection’s ethos of understated elegance.

Chiuri’s philosophy centered on allowing the body to define the silhouette rather than imposing rigid structures, diverging from the architectural approach of her Dior tenure. Bias-cut gowns, adorned with Art Deco necklines or cross-hatching details paired with bold collar necklaces, exemplified this vision. The result was a compelling fusion of heritage and modernity, signifying a transformative chapter for Fendi under Chiuri’s creative direction.

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