Pakistani Teams Conquer Broad Peak and Khosar Gang in Separate Expeditions

GILGIT: A Pakistani expedition team of eight climbers has successfully reached the summit of Broad Peak (8,051 meters), while another team of eight women achieved the first ascent of Khosar Gang (6,040 meters) in the Shigar Valley, according to announcements made on Monday.

The Broad Peak team, organized by Karakoram Expeditions, included Argentine climber Juan Pablo Toro alongside Pakistani members Ahmad Baig, Rizwan Dad, Waqar Ali, Mansoor Karim, Nawaz Ali Khan, Mirza Ali, and Zaman Karim. The team employed a new direct route variation, skipping Section V and the extended ridge above Camp IV. Expedition leader Mirza Ali guided the team from Camp III at 2 a.m. on Sunday, with the group summiting at 10 p.m.

The Alpine Club of Pakistan confirmed the successful Khosar Gang expedition, part of its Second Women’s Khosar Gang Expedition initiative. Climbers included Zeba Batool and Bibi Afzoon (Gilgit-Baltistan), Haiqa Ghazi and Ammara Sharif (Islamabad), Maria Khan (Khyber Pakhtunkhwa), Bisma Hassan and Sadia Maqbool (Punjab), and Bibi Malka (Balochistan).

The expedition, aimed at advancing women’s involvement in mountaineering and outdoor leadership, was supported by a documentary team led by Haiqa Ghazi and Sharukh. Participants were selected through a rigorous process overseen by a committee of veteran female climbers, including Naila Kiani. High-altitude guides Ali Muhammad Sadpara, Sadiq Hussain Sadpara, and Ilyas Hushay provided technical leadership, while Qauid Shigri managed rope-fixing operations.

“This achievement underscores the capability of our women climbers to excel through courage, professionalism, and teamwork,” stated Alpine Club of Pakistan General Secretary Ayaz Shugri. He further announced plans for a K2 Baltoro Cleanup Expedition in September to promote sustainable mountain tourism and environmental stewardship.

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