Saul Nash Recasts Sportswear as Sensual, Movable Utility for Spring 2027 Menswear

For Spring 2027, Saul Nash began with 1950s male pin-up illustrations, particularly those depicting athletes, a starting point that led him toward sports uniforms and the idea that sports heroes can function as contemporary pin-ups. The result was a collection that made athleticism feel tactile and sensual, with particular attention to the wrestling singlet—a garment designed to limit an opponent’s grip—while placing emphasis on the wearer’s agency rather than the spectator’s gaze.

That idea was expressed through pieces that could be opened, closed, tightened or layered at the wearer’s discretion. Nash pointed to the frequent use of two-way zippers, noting that the decision to reveal skin or keep it covered was left to the individual. Hooded zip-front shirts in suiting fabric, sheer compression layers, technical vests and second-skin tops carried anatomical lines that referenced both sportswear and corsetry, though Nash emphasized that he did not want to over-sexualize the silhouettes.

Gathered backs, elasticated waists and curved volumes gave familiar forms a renewed sense of movement. Technical adjustments allowed jackets and trousers to sit away from the body, while denim was treated as active clothing as well as workwear. Pale and dark jeans, zip-front denim jackets, hooded shirts and loose five-pocket trousers were cut with volume through the leg.

The singlet appeared both as a garment and as a recurring design motif, its outline traced across the torso through panels, sheer overlays, embroidery and graphic body mapping. In hooded cotton oxford shirting, the shape was suggested through embroidered ventilation holes.

The collection also included the latest chapter of SLNSH, Nash’s ongoing collaboration with lululemon. Printed jersey pieces were finished with blurred, shadowed and halftone effects intended to appear sun-marked rather than conventionally patterned. “When the sun reflects off objects, you get these beautiful shadows,” Nash observed. The result was a compelling exploration of the space between sport, movement and sensuality.

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