There reaches a point in every English summer when those of a certain social standing depart for the countryside, retreating to country estates they insist on calling “cottages.” Fortunately, for the rest of us yearning for storybook escapes, there exists Gleneagles.
Located roughly an hour from Edinburgh, this luxury hotel—constructed in the grand style of Scottish castles and branded as “the Glorious Playground”—offers a rare combination of outdoor adventures by day and refined dining by evening. The moment our reservation was confirmed, we found ourselves dreaming of this very experience. While many upscale properties provide elegant accommodations, scenic vistas and excellent cuisine, it is Gleneagles’ stunning Highland setting, fleet of Land Rovers, and extensive sporting facilities that keep drawing us back.
The approach to Gleneagles—with its 205 bedrooms and 28 suites, rolling hills, manicured forests and immaculate gardens—feels like stepping onto the set of a period drama, reminiscent of the captivating landscapes seen in “Outlander.”
When the hotel first opened its doors in 1924, the sheer grandeur and extravagance prompted London newspapers to declare Gleneagles “the eighth wonder of the world.” Its Jazz Age concerts gained such popularity that they were broadcast across the newly established BBC radio network. The property quickly became a favored retreat for royalty and luminaries, including Princess Margaret, Vivien Leigh and Sir Laurence Olivier.
The Draw of the Glamour
To recapture that 1920s magic and celebrate our wedding anniversary, my husband and I traveled via overnight train from London to the hotel’s private station.
By the time we departed at 11 p.m., exhaustion had already set in, and sleeping on even the most luxurious rail carriage held little appeal. The hotel itself was originally conceived by the Caledonian Railway to capitalize on the burgeoning popularity of train travel. As the railway’s longtime general manager, Donald Matheson, reportedly noted: “If you have the traveler in your pocket on the train, you might as well keep him.”
Yet arriving at Gleneagles—even at 6 a.m.—always evokes the sensation of receiving a hand-lettered invitation on fine stationery, rather than simply booking a room online.
“You don’t arrive at Gleneagles so much as approach it—there is a driveway, and then a building that appears to have stood there quite contentedly for a century,” actor Richard E. Grant, who co-hosts a podcast dedicated to historic hotels, explained in an interview.
Golf, invented in Scotland during the 15th century in its modern iteration, remains the hotel’s primary attraction. Jack Nicklaus designed the signature Centenary Course, which hosted the Ryder Cup in 2014. During peak seasons, the property accommodates an impressive 11,500 rounds of golf monthly.
Beyond golf, an extensive array of activities awaits: an equestrian school, shooting, fishing, falconry, canoeing, kayaking, bouldering and rock climbing, among others. For designer Rachelle Hruska, whose Lingua Franca clothing line is sold at the property, the variety of experiences represents the greatest appeal. “Everything feels special without being overly fussy. It is authentic and soulful—easier said than done,” she observed.
Our celebratory visit commenced with a catered hillside picnic. We were transported via Land Rover to a reservoir nestled in the hills, where a spread worthy of a Nancy Meyers film was arranged: fresh flowers, lobster, roast sirloin, an assortment of salads, fruit and a traditional high tea selection featuring scones, jams and clotted cream.
Despite the price of £290 per person (approximately $360), the lunch included no beverages beyond water. While wine would have been welcome, even an Arnold Palmer would have sufficed. The hotel later explained that additional drinks should have been ordered when booking the picnic, though this requirement was not clearly communicated. Next time, we would likely choose the basic picnic option (starting at £45 per person) and locate our own scenic spot. Nevertheless, sampling the premium version proved enjoyable.
On a previous visit, I had saved for six months to justify the expense. Accommodation rates average approximately £550 per night during off-peak periods and between £800 and £900 during summer months and holidays.
Basking in Peace
There was something distinctly refined about how the hotel anticipated our every need. Fires were lit at breakfast tables when temperatures dropped, and umbrellas appeared the moment rain threatened.
Rain did make an appearance. To Mr. Grant, this only enhanced the atmosphere. “A misty day at Gleneagles is not a day ruined, but a day elevated,” he noted. “The hills grow soft, sound travels closer, and the entire estate takes on the hue of a photograph left too long in a drawer.”
Near the reservoir sits a newly constructed sauna, offering views that made me feel transported to a remote wilderness. Housed in a charming Scandinavian-style cottage with plush robes, a tea service and comfortable lounge chairs, it provided a peaceful retreat. We enjoyed time both in and out of the sauna, relaxing on the deck in solitude. My husband even took an invigorating cold plunge in the reservoir, while I preferred to observe.
Upon leaving the sauna, I found myself captivated by the reservoir and the seemingly endless hills beyond. I mentioned to Andrew Herd, the fishing instructor, how the tranquility I experience in Scotland differs from anywhere else I have visited. He smiled and replied: “Well, Scotland encompasses 20 million acres with only 5 million inhabitants. There is simply space to wander.”
His words resonated with me. The Gleneagles estate spans 850 acres, featuring 10 bars and restaurants, four swimming pools and five outdoor tennis courts. A recently opened indoor racquet club houses eight indoor tennis courts and three padel courts. We wandered freely throughout the property, taking extended walks through the evening mist after dinner and enjoying late-night cocktails at the Art Deco-inspired American Bar, where bartender Emilio crafted exceptional drinks and shared compelling stories.
During the day, we read, took padel lessons and swam. We participated in a premium whisky tasting led by Krisztian Eke, curator of the Still Room, which stocks over 200 single-malt varieties. The most exclusive bottle? £45,000.
My husband thoroughly enjoyed sampling the higher-end expressions and learning their histories. At the gift shops, I purchased the hotel’s signature blueberry whisky jam as an anniversary gift. At just £8, my husband appreciated it as though I had presented him with an abundance of caviar.
I was equally charmed by the Lingua Franca sweaters, embroidered with Scottish-inspired phrases such as “Don’t Give a Dram” and “Haste Ye Back.” However, my favorite declared “Late Checkout Please”—words I had uttered that very morning, my persistent request at every hotel that captures my heart.
One morning, I rose early to maximize my time and quietly left our room. Walking down the lengthy corridor, I could not shake the feeling of stepping into a scene from “Downton Abbey,” the 1920s edition.
The walls displayed an impeccable banker’s green, while ceilings towered above with crown molding that appeared to span generations. Small velvet side chairs and benches dotted the hallway at regular intervals. As I approached the grand staircase leading to the lobby, I noticed a pair of Chanel ballet flats abandoned in the corridor, as though someone had used them for an impromptu game of horseshoes—remnants, it seemed, of guests who had enjoyed a far later evening than ourselves.
As upon our first visit, I recognized that this was no mere publicity stunt: Gleneagles was conceived to deliver both luxury and whimsy in equal measure.
