Laura Gerte’s Spring 2027 collection, “Lost to Virtue,” presents a thought-provoking exploration of dismantling traditional ideals of femininity. Drawing inspiration from Dadaism and the pioneering 1914 feminist manifesto by artist and poet Mina Loy, Gerte confronts the historical narrative that has shaped female virtue as a tool of patriarchal control. Loy’s radical work, published decades after its creation, resonates powerfully in Gerte’s modern reinterpretation.

“One of the manifesto’s central ideas is the destruction of virtue. For generations, the idea of female morality has been used to keep girls and women small, forcing us into predefined roles. And we don’t want that anymore,” Gerte explained following the show. With “Lost to Virtue,” Gerte concludes her trinity of collections, charting a journey from vulnerability to darkness and finally to liberation. “The first collection was very vulnerable, the second was really very dark and dedicated to the Female Villain, and now it’s free—free from the expectations of society.”

The show commenced with white looks constructed from Gerte’s signature deconstructed vintage T-shirts. These pieces, cut apart and heat-bonded back together, cling to the body before gradually disintegrating into halter dresses with strategic cut-outs—virtue as fabric that falls, shifts, and slowly unravels. The body remains Gerte’s primary site of construction, with close-fitting mesh pieces layered with sculptural draping that both hugged and framed the form rather than simply revealing it. “Many of the garments were made without traditional pattern cutting. For me, that’s a rejection of classical design—of virtuous design and virtuous ways of working.” New additions included secondhand scarves, pleated in a West Berlin workshop and draped modularly around the body in vibrant summer hues. Tongue-in-cheek Bavarian graphics from upcycled brewery T-shirts—only visible upon close inspection—added a touch of irony without explanation. “Why not? I’m from Bavaria.”

Berlin in summer, Gerte noted with a wry smile, demands either heavy winter coats or next-to-nothing attire. This reality translated into micro bras, string details, low-rise skirts, and fluffy upcycled boleros. These aren’t everyday garments but pieces designed for weddings, gallery openings, and club nights—the fleeting occasions when being seen becomes purposeful. Free, feral, unruly, and unapologetically amused, Gerte’s 2027 manifesto already stands as definitive.

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