Historical context: The International Congress Centrum (ICC) in Berlin epitomizes the futuristic optimism of the 1970s. Opened in 1979, the silver megastructure—designed to accommodate up to 20,000 attendees—remains a relic of a future that never fully materialized. Against this backdrop, Nigerian designer Adebayo Oke-Lawal unveiled Orange Culture’s spring 2027 collection, Water Will Carry Us, featuring 24 garments distinguished by saturated hues, sheer layers, and meticulous craftsmanship.
This season, Oke-Lawal drew inspiration from Makoko, the historic fishing community on the edge of the Lagos Lagoon. “Makoko is often referred to as the ‘Venice of Lagos,’ a phrase that encapsulates its blend of beauty, hardship, and contradiction,” he explained. Founded by Egun fishermen in the 19th century, Makoko is characterized by stilt houses, wooden walkways, and canoes, where water functions both as livelihood and infrastructure.
Design references were both literal and subtle: an abstract print depicting a lone figure crossing water appeared on shirts and blouses, while a ruched top echoed an aerial perspective of Makoko’s waterways. Voluminous crochet tops, constructed from thousands of tiny loops and finished with tonal pom‑poms, transformed fishing‑line motifs into exuberant texture, paired with sharply tailored trousers. Asymmetrical layering mirrored the settlement’s irregular architecture, and sheer fabrics introduced a nuanced tension between protection and exposure.
Orange Culture eschews muted tones; yellow evokes blazing sunshine, red resembles ripe tomato, blue ranges between cobalt and royal, and violet reaches its purest intensity. Clean‑lined organza ensembles shimmer with beadwork reminiscent of fireflies. Craftsmanship anchors the collection: handwoven Aso Oke is reimagined as contemporary polo shirts, while guinea cloth—traditionally reserved for ceremonial wear—is transformed into lightweight outerwear. Locally sourced cotton, lace, organza, and meticulous hand‑finishing convey traditional textile techniques into a modern wardrobe.
Collaboration remains integral. Eki Ogunbor of Kisara designed Orange Culture’s debut handbag, inspired by Makoko canoes; Crochet Goodie crafted the crochet pieces; Paolo Sisiano created the Makoko Fisherman print; and Berlin‑based Stella Owusu of In Jewels designed the jewelry.
